U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 

DIVISION OP MICROSCOPY. 




V FOOD PRODUCTS.—!. 


TWELVE EDIBLE MUS1IR00IS OF THE UNITED STATES, 


WITH 


DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR IDENTIFICATION AND 
THEIR PREPARATION AS FOOD. 


BY 

THOMAS TAYLOR, M. D., 

CHIEF OF THE DIVISION OF MICROSCOPY. 









REVISED AND REPRINTED BY AUTHORITY OF THE SECRETARY OF 
AGRICULTURE, WITH AN APPENDIX. 




WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 


































i 






U. S. Department of Agriculture, Food Products No.I 



Twelve Edible Mushrooms 


of the United States 


flip Urcuii Co.litio.D»M}a. 
















U. S. DEPARTMENT OF AGRICULTURE. 

4 « 

DIVISION OF MIOKOSCOPY. 




AVI Til 


DIRECTIONS FOR THEIR IDENTIFICATION AND 
THEIR PREPARATION AS FOOD. 


BY 


THOMAS TAYLOR, M. H., 

CHIEF OF THE DIVISION OF MICROSCOPY. 


REVISED AND 


REPRINTED BY 
AGRICULTURE, 


authority of the secretary of 

WITH AN APPENDIX. 



WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 

1893 . 




















INTRODUCTORY NOTE. 


U. S. Department of Agriculture, 

Division of Microscopy, 
Washington , I). 0 ., December 1 , 1892 . 

Sir: The continued requests received in this division for information 
relating to edible mushrooms and their culture render desirable the 
reprint of that portion of my report for 1885 which treats of this sub¬ 
ject. The article in question, which has been carefully revised, together 
with an appendix on the Preparation of Mushroom beds, is therefore 
respectfully submitted for republication. 

Very respectfully, 

Thomas Taylor, 

Micros enlist. 


lion. J. M. Rusk, 


Secretary of Agriculture, 


3 



CONTENTS. 


Page. 

Twelve edible mushrooms of the United States. 5 

Food value of mushrooms. 5 

Twelve edible species. (See frontispiece)... 8 

Lactarius deliciosus Fr. Orange Milk Mushroom (Fig. 1). 8 

Cantharellus cibarius Fr. Chanterelle (Fig. 2). 9 

Marasmius orcades Bolt. Fairy Ring Champignon (Fig. 3). 9 

Hydnum repandum L. Hedgehog or Spine Mushroom (Fig. 4). 10 

Agaricm campeslris L. Meadow Mushroom (Fig. 5). 10 

Coprinus comatus Fr. Maned Agaric (Fig. 0 . 11 

Morchella esculenta P. (Fig. 7). 11 

Clavaria cinerea Bull. (Fig. 8). 12 

Clavaria rugosa Bull. (Fig. 9). 12 

Boletus cdulis Bull. Edible Pore Mushroom (Fig. 10) . 13 

Lycoperdon giganteum Batsch. Puffball (Fig. 11) . 13 

Fistulina hepatica Fr. Liver Fungus (Fig. 12). 15 

Methods of cultivation. 15 

Appendix: 

Directions for the preparation and spawning of mushroom beds. 17 

Preparing the beds. 17 

Spawning the beds. 18 

4 






















TWELVE EDIBLE MUSHROOMS OF THE UNITED STATES. 


For several years past the Division of Microscopyof tlie IT. S. Depart¬ 
ment of Agriculture has been in receipt of numerous letters from regular 
correspondents and others to the effect that in various localities, rep¬ 
resenting almost every section and climate of the Union, there are found 
large quantities of edible mushrooms and other allied fungi, few of 
which are utilized because the great majority of the people do not know 
how to distinguish the edible from the poisonous species. To obtain 
some clear and trustworthy criteria by which to make this essential 
distinction has been the object of the various communications received, 
and, in view of the highly nutritious properties of this class of escu 
lents and of the great possible value of their aggregate product, as 
indicated by the vast quantities produced in countries where attention 
is given to their cultivation, the importance of a satisfactory answer to 
these inquiries will be readily appreciated. 

FOOD VALUE OF MUSHROOMS. 


Eollrausch and Siegel, who claim to have made exhaustive investiga¬ 
tions into the food values of mushrooms, state that u many species de¬ 
serve to be placed beside meat as sources of nitrogenous nutriment,” 
and their analysis, if correct, fully bears out the statement. They find 
in 100 parts of dried Morchella esculenta 35.18 per cent of protein; in 
Helvella esculenta , 26.31 per cent of protein, from 16 to 19 per cent of 
potassium salts and phosphoric acid, 2.3 per cent of fatty matter, and a 
considerable quantity of sugar. The Boletus edulis they represent as 
containing in 100 parts of the dried substance 22.82 per cent of pro¬ 
tein. The nitrogenous values of different foods as compared with the 
mushroom are stated as follows: u Protein substances calculated for 100 
parts of bread, 8.03; of oatmeal, 9.71; of barley bread, 6.39; of legum¬ 
inous fruits, 27.05; of potatoes, 1.85; of mushrooms, 33.0.” A much 
larger proportion of the various kinds of mushrooms are edible than 
is generally supposed, but a prejudice has grown up concerning them 
in this country which it will take some time to eradicate. Notwith¬ 
standing the occurrence of occasional fatal accidents through the inad¬ 
vertent eating of poisonous species, fungi are largely consumed both by 
savage and civilized man in all parts of the world, and while they con¬ 
tribute so considerable a portion of the food product of the world we 



G 


may be sure their value will not be permanently overlooked in the United 
States, especially when we consider our large accessions of population 
from countries in which the mushroom is a familiar and much prized 
edible. 

In France mushrooms form a very large article of consumption and 
are widely cultivated. Mushroom beds are cultivated in caves, fre¬ 
quently miles in extent. A cave at Mery is mentioned as containing, 
in 1867,21 miles of beds, and producing not less than 3,000pounds daily. 
Another at Frepillon contains 16 miles of beds. The catacombs and 
quarries of Paris and vicinity, and the caves of Moulin de la Roche, 
Sous Bicetre, and Bagneux produce immense quantities of mushrooms. 
They are all under Government supervision, and are regularly inspected 
like the mines. 

The mushroom which is cultivated in these quarries and caves almost 
to the exclusion of all others is the u Snow Ball” (Agarlevs arvensis ). 
The truffle is held in high esteem and is largely exported. In 1872.the 
quantity of truffles exported from France was valued at over 3,000,000 
francs. In 1870 at nearly 10,000,000 francs. Immense quantities of the 
Agaricus deliciosus are sold in the Marseilles markets. The Fistulina 
hepatica is also in great demand, and many other varieties appear from 
time to time in the markets throughout France. The natives of Aus¬ 
tralia use largely a truffle which attains a weight of more than 2 pounds, 
and is known under the name of “native bread.” The Chinese, who 
are noted for the care bestowed on their esculent vegetation, consume 
large quantities of edible fungi, importing largely from Japan and 
Tahiti. Tne trade in edible fungi from Tahiti to China commenced 
about the year 1866; in 1868 only 70 tons were shipped; in 1873 135 
tons were exported to China, and in 1874 152 tons were exported. 

The value of mushrooms imported by Shanghai from Tahiti in 1872 
was 107,000 taels, and in 1873 138,800 taels—the tael is worth about 6 
shillings sterling, or about $1.50 in United States currency. The 
fungus shipped (Hirncola auricula-Judas B.) is said to be very rich in 
funginer and nitrogen. It is a very bulky freight; 10 tons will occupy 
the room of 30 tons ordinary freight. 

A very laudable practice of the Chinese Government alluded to in an 
English journal, and which might perhaps be advantageously adopted 
in this country, is the publishing for annual gratuitous distribution of 
numerous treatises, describing the different herbs which can be utilized 
in whole or in part for food purposes. One of these treatises is called 
the “ Anti-Famine Herbal,” and consists of six volumes, containing 
descriptions, with illustrations, of over four hundred plants which can 
be used as food. These volumes are of inestimable value in districts 
where the ravages of insects, drought, etc,, have destroyed the grain 
and rice crops, and famine is imminent. For some years past New Zea¬ 
land has exported large quantities of an edible fungus to San Fran- 
ciso and Hongkong for use of the Celestials. A full account of this 


7 


industry may be obtained from tlie United States consular reports. 
1 he gathering and drying of the fungus gives profitable employment 
to large numbers of colonial children, as well as to the Maoris. The 
species grows abundantly in the wooded regions of New Zealand, and 
when dry is worth from 4 to 5 pence a pound. The Chinese, who are 
singularly free from prejudice in the matter of food, use it, as they do 
the edible nest of their swallow, as a chief ingredient in their favorite 
soup. They also employ it as a medicine, and, stranger still, for mak¬ 
ing a valuable dye for silk. Another remarkable edible fungus of New 
Zealand is the Splueria Robertsii , which grows out of the body of a 
large caterpillar, practically converting the latter into vegetable sub¬ 
stance. The caterpillar lives under ground, and the fungus springs 
upward through the soil till it reaches a height of 8 or 10 inches. It is 
eaten by the Maoris, who employ it also, when burned, as a coloring 
matter. 

The Japanese grow several species of edible fungi in logs of de¬ 
caying wood in a manner peculiar to themselves, and, aside from the 
home consumption, they in one year exported to China mushrooms to 
the value of $00,000. In 1879 mushrooms were exported from Japan to 
the value of 243,440 yens. The yen is equal to 99.7 cents. Among the 
northeastern tribes of Asia fungi are largely used as food. One species, 
when pounded, forms their snuff, while another, the Fly Agaric, which 
is utilized in Europe as a fly-killer, and is regarded as one of the most 
poisonous forms, is used by them as a substitute for ardent spirits, one 
large specimen being sufficient “to produce a pleasant intoxication for 
a whole day.” In many parts of Europe fungi are a favorite food, 
being eaten fresh, and also preserved in vinegar for winter use. For 
pickling purposes, all kinds, it is said, are gathered, the vinegar being 
supposed to neutralize the alkaline poison of the noxious species. The 
common mushroom, the morel, and the truffle are, however, the favor¬ 
ite edible fungi. In Italy the value of the mushroom as an article of 
diet has long been understood and appreciated. Pliny, Gfalen, and 
Dioscorides mention various esculent species, notably varieties of the 
truffle, the boletus and the puffball. At Rome it has been the custom 
of the Government to appoint inspectors to examine all the mushrooms 
brought into market and to reject such as are poisonous or worthless, 
which are thrown into the Tiber. Tt was forbidden also to hawk mush¬ 
rooms about the streets, and all were required to be sent to the central 
depot for inspection. 

The yearly average of the taxed mushrooms sold (all over 10 pounds 
being taxed) in the city of Rome alone, for the past decade, has been 
estimated at between 60,000 and 80,000 pounds weight. Large quan¬ 
tities of mushrooms are consumed in Germany, Hungary, Russia, and 
Austria, and in the latter country a list is published, by authority, of 
those mushrooms which upon official examination may be sold. Dar¬ 
win speaks of Terra del Fuego as the only country where cryptogamic 


8 


plants form a staple article of food. A bright yellow fungus allied to 
Bulgarin forms, with shellfish, the staple food of the Fuegians. In 
England the common meadow mushroom Agaricus campestris is quite 
well known and used to a considerable extent among the people, but 
there is not that general knowledge of and use of other species which 
obtains on the continent. Much has been done of late years by the 
Rev. M. A. Berkeley, Dr. Curtis, Dr. C. D. Badliam, Dr. M. C. Cooke, 
Worthington (f. Smith, Prof. Charles Peck, and others to disseminate 
general knowledge on this subject. That America is rich in the quan¬ 
tity and variety of her esculent fungi is readily seen by the fact that 
one hundred and eleven species of edible fungi have been described by 
the Rev. Dr. Curtis, State botanist of North Carolina, as indigenous to 
that State alone. Late investigations show that nearly all the species 
common to the countries of Continental Europe are found in different- 
localities in the United States. Dr. J. J. Brown, of Sheboygan, Wis., 
writes that edible mushrooms are found in his neighborhood in great 
abundance. 

In preparing this paper for publication I have made selections from 
such of the species of edible mushrooms as have marked peculiarities 
of structure, habits, taste, odor, color, juice, and change of color of juice 
on exposure to the atmosphere. 

TWELVE EDIBLE SPECIES. 

Lactarius deliciosus FT. Orange Milk Mushroom . 

Fig. 1. 

This mushroom (Lactarius deliciosus) is highly recommended by differ¬ 
ent authors. It belongs to the Lactars or milk-bearing group. As a 
group the milk-bearing mushrooms are generally viewed with suspicion, 
but the species u deliciosus ” receives general commendation as an escu¬ 
lent. It is easily distinguished from any other of the group by the orange 
or red color of the milk which exudes from it when cut or broken. The 
flesh changes on exposure to the atmosphere, as does the milk also, 
and becomes a dull green color. This mushroom has a firm, juicy flesh; 
its richly colored orange top is commonly, but not invariably, marked 
with zones of a deeper color. The stem is often spotted red; the gills 
or lamellae are the same color as the cap or pileus. It is found in plan¬ 
tations of fir and pine and in swampy woods. A poisonous mushroom 
of this subgenus similar in shape and size can be readily distinguished 
from it by its white milk, which does not change. The flavor of Lac¬ 
tarius deliciosus when cooked is said to resemble that of u kidney stew.’ 7 

Method of cooking .—The rich gravy it produces is its chief characteristic, hence it 
commends itself for sauces or as an ingredient in soups. It requires delicate cook¬ 
ing, as it becomes tough if kept over the fire until its juice has evaporated. Baking 
is perhaps the best method of preparing this mushroom for the table. 


9 


Cantharellus cibarius Fr. Chanterelle. 

Fig. 2. 

Wherever found, this species ( Cantharellus cibarius) grows in great 
abundance. It is very popular in Europe, where in some localities the 
inhabitants make it their principal food. It is easily recognized by its 
rich color and the peculiar form of its gills. It is generally found in 
light woods and high situations. The pileus is lobed and irregular in 
shape. When young it is dome like, the margin rolled in; as it ap¬ 
proaches maturity the margin expands, forming an irregular wavy line, 
and the center of the pileus becomes depressed. The color is orange 
or deep yellow, somewhat resembling that of the yolk of an egg. The 
stem is tough, white, and solid, becoming hollow in maturity. The 
gills, which appear like short, branching veins, are thick and wide 
apart, and are of the same color as the pileus. The texture is smooth, 
the flesh white and dense, and has a pleasant odor. Vittadini com¬ 
pares it to that of plums. It is somewhat dry and tough in character, 
and therefore requires slow and protracted stewing, with plenty of 
liquid. In selecting for culinary purposes, crisp and heavy ones should 
be chosen in preference to light and soft ones, as being less likely to 
become leathery in cooking. Some recommend soaking them in milk 
over night to render them tender. 

Mrs. Hussey gives the following receipt: 

Cut the mushrooms across and remove the stems; put them into a closely covered 
saucepan, with a little fresh butter, and sweat them until tender at the lowest pos¬ 
sible temperature. A great heat always destroys the flavor. 

A deleterious sx^ecies (Cantharellus u aurantiacus”), often found in 
rank grass or decaying-herbage, is of the same color, and by a careless 
observer might be taken for the wholesome species. A little care and 
attention to detail, however, will enable one to distinguish one from the 
other. In the Cantharellus aurantiacus the pileus is covered with down 
and the veins or gills are crowded, thin, and of a much deeper color than 
the pileus. 

Marasmius oreadea Bolt. Fairy Bing Champignon. 

Fig. 3. 

This mushroom (Marasmius oreades) is represented by all mycologists 
as one of the most highly flavored. It grows in rings in short pastures, 
on downs, and by road sides, but never in woods. It is very well 
marked, somewhat tough, the solid stem particularly so. In color it is 
a bright buff. The gills are wide apart and are of a cream color. 
When dried it can be kept for years without losing its flavor. “It is 
much used in the French a la mode beef shops in London, with the view 
of flavoring that dish.” Dr. Badham, Eev. M. J. Berkeley, and Mr. 
Worthington G.Smita,of England, highly recommend the Fairy Ring 
Champignon, ami it is said by experts in the culinary art that, when 


i 


10 


boiled with butter, it has an exquisitely ricli and delicious flavor. Mr. 
Berkeley says it is so common in some districts in England that bushels 
may be gathered in a day. 

Another species of this genus (M. peronatus , or Hairy Foot), found 
growing in woods, on dead leaves, is to be avoided. The gills of this 
species are darker in color and narrower. It has a hairy down at the 
base of the stem by which it may also be distinguished. 

/ 

Hydnum repandum L. Hedgehog or Spine Mushroom. 

Fig. 4. 

The genus Hydnum being so well defined, having spines instead of' 
gills or pores, is easily distinguised from all others. 

The pileus of the species repandum is irregular in shape, depressed 
in the center, fleshy, and of a pale cinnamon or yellowish color. 

Flesh firm and white, turning slightly brown when bruised. The 
spines are awl-shaped, of various sizes, crowded and running down; 
paler in color than the pileus. Stem solid, at first white, and then 
tawny cream color; spores round and white. There are no poisonous 
species in this genus, although some are too tough to be considered 
edible. 

The species repandum is the most desirable of the genus Hydnum . 
M. Roques, an eminent French mycologist, says: 

The general use of this fungus throughout France, Italy, and Germany leaves no 
room for doubt as to its good qualities. 

It is common in oak and pine woods in England. Mrs. Hussey rec* 
ommends stewing this mushroom in brown or white sauce. 

Cook slowly and for a long time and keep well supplied with liquid, it being 
naturally deficient in moisture. 

Its dry nature makes it easy to preserve, and it may be kept for a 
great length of time. 


Agaricus campestris L. Meadow Mushroom. 


rig. 5. 

To distinguish this species ( campestris , or meadow mushroom) re¬ 
quires very little discrimination. The cap or pileus is fleshy, white, or 
tawny, sometimes brownish. When it is in its best condition for use 
the gills -are a beautiful pink in color, ultimately becoming a deep 
brown, which reaches nearly to the stem, which carries a well-marked 
white woolly ring or volva. The cap is usually more or less adorned 
with minute silky fibrils. The margin generally extends a little beyond 
the outer extremity of the gills. It has an enticing fragrance, and the 
white flesh is sometimes inclined to change to pink when broken. It 
grows in open grassy places in fields and rich pastures, but never in 
thick woods. 


11 


It may be prepared for the table by stewing with butter, spice, pars¬ 
ley, sweet herbs, salt and pepper, and a little pure lemon juice. It 
makes a hue catsup, and cut up in small pieces and stewed with butter 
makes an agreeable adjunct to a steak or mutton chop. The catsup may 
be used to give flavor to soup or beef tea. 

Tins mushroom should be eaten fresh and served hot. 

Dr. Badham says: 

The mushroom having the same proximate principles as meat, requires, like meat, 
to be cooked. 

Mr. Worthington (f. Smith says: 

The Agaricus arvensis (horse mushroom) is a species very nearly allied to the 
meadow mushroom and frequently grows with it, but it i3 coarser and has not the 
same delicious flavor. It is usually much larger, often attaining enormous dimen¬ 
sions; it turns a brownish yellow as soon as broken or bruised. The top in good 
specimens is smooth and snowy white; the gills are not the pure pink of the meadow 
mushroom, but a dirty brownish white, ultimately turning brown. It has a big, 
ragged, floccose ring, and the pithy stem is inclined to be hollow. 

Coprinus comatus Fr. Maned Agaric. 

Fig. 6. 

The maned agaric ( Coprinus comat us) is considered one of the most de¬ 
licious of all the mushroom tribe when young. The cap is first cylindri¬ 
cal, then bell-shaped, then expanded, more or less scaly, and split lon¬ 
gitudinally. The flesh is thick in the center and very thin at the 
margin. The gills are free, and at first white or pinkish, then black, 
soon melting into an inky fluid, the color of which is due to the presence 
of black spores. The ring on the stem is moveable, then disappears. 
The stem is white and hollow. This mushroom grows in waste and 
grassy places, lawns, and meadows. Only young specimens are de¬ 
sirable for esculent purposes. Mr. Worthington Cl. Smith, as the re¬ 
sult of considerable experience, observes: 

It must be noted, however, that when too young this agaric is rather deficient in 
flavor and its fibers tenacious. Its flavor is most rich and its texture most delicate 
when the gills show the pink color with sepia margins. 

It decays rapidly and should be cooked immediately after gathering. 
A very simple method is to broil and serve on toast. 

Morchella esculenta P. 

Fig. 7. 

This mushroom is known under a variety of names— Phallus esculent us , 
Helvetia esculenta , etc. The genus Morchella has but few species, and 
most authors agree that all are edible. Berkeley considers the Mor- 
clitlla semilibera as doubtful. The head of the morel is deeply pitted, 
hollow, thin, and firm, and when fully grown is several inches in diam¬ 
eter. The morel is found in April and May, in grassy places, on the 


12 


border of fields and the raised banks of streams, sometimes in fir or 
chestnut forests and in hilly countries. It prefers a calcareous ground 
and flourishes on wood ashes. 

In Germany, France, and England it is well known and highly 
esteemed. In the United States it is little known, although it grows 
in several of the States in great abundance. I have had specimens of 
it from Missouri, Wisconsin, and Maryland. Curtis speaks of finding 
it in North Carolina, but not in quantity. It is identical with the 
European morel. In Yorkshire, England, the women who gather cow¬ 
slips for wine-brewing bring to market a few morels in the corners of 
their baskets and ask an extra shilling for them. The dried morel is 
used in parts of England to give a flavor to certain kinds of sauce. Large 
quantities of this fungus, in a prepared condition, are imported into 
England from the continent. 

The following receipt will illustrate one of the methods of cooking 
this excellent mushroom: 

Having washed and cleaned from them the earth which is apt to collect in the hol¬ 
lows of the plants, dry them thoroughly in a napkin, and put in a saucepan with 
pepper and salt and parsley, adding, or not, a piece of ham; stew for an hour, pour¬ 
ing in occasionally a little broth to prevent burning. When sufficiently done, biud 
with the yolks of two or three eggs and serve on buttered toast. 

Clavaria cinerea Bull. 

Fig. 8. 

Of this species ( Cinerea) M. C. Cooke observes: 

It has a short, thick stem, is very much branched and irregular, and becomes ul¬ 
timately of a cinereous hue. The substance is brittle, and not tough as in some 
species. In France it is known under various names, as Pied de coq, Gallinole , etc., 
and in Italy as Ditolarossa; in both of those countries it is eaten. 

It is quite plentiful in this country. I have had some fine specimens 
from the White Mountains. All the white spored Glavarias are whole¬ 
some. 


Clavaria rugosa Bull. 

Fig. 9. 

This species (Clavaria rugosa) is not generally found in sufficient 
quantities to make it of much value as an esculent, but it is wholesome, 
and can be cooked with other varieties of the genus. It is irregular in 
shape, white, and sometimes delicately tinted with gray. Before cook¬ 
ing, the plants should be sweated with butter over a slow fire and the 
liquor thrown away. They may then be wrapped in slices of bacon 
and stewed for an hour in a little sauce or gravy, seasoned with salt, 
pepper, and parsley, then served with white sauce. 


13 


Boletus edulis Bull. Edible Pore Mushroom. 

Fig. 10. 

Dr. Badliam says: 

The word Boletus, wkicli has at different times and under different mycologists 
been made to represent in turn many different funguses, is now restricted to such as 
have a soft flesh, vertical tubes underneath, round or angular, slightly connected to¬ 
gether and with the substance of the cap, open below and lined by the sporiferous 
membrane; the cap horizontal, very fleshy; the stalk generally reticulated. 

Iii this group it lias been said that there are but few edible species 
and some that are very deleterious. The flesh of the poisonous species, 
it has been said, also invariably turns blue when bruised or broken, 
but this test, I think, can not be relied upon. “ The Boletus edulis , w 
says Badham, “can not be mistaken for any other Boletus , because it 
alone presents the following characters united, viz: A cap, the surface 
of which is smooth; tubes, the color of which varies with each period 
of its growth; beautiful and singular reticulation of the stalk, especially 
towards the upper portion, and a flesh tvliich is ivhite and tinchanging. 

The cap is brown. At first the tubes are white, then pale yellow, and 
when mature, a dull greenish yellow. For table use the specimens 
should be gathered when the tubes are pale yellow; it is then most 
tender. The stem is solid and quite thick, at first white, but turning 
to a light brown in maturity, displaying near the top a network of 
pinkish veins. It is sold in quantities in Italy. It is also quite popu¬ 
lar in Hungary, Germany, and Russia, and other European countries. 
It grows most abundantly in the autumn, although often found in 
spring and summer. It is found chiefly in the woods, more especially 
of pine, oak, and chestnut. The following receipt for cooking the Bo¬ 
letus is given by Persoon: 

It may be cooked in white sauce with or without chicken in fricassee, broiled or 
baked with butter, salad oil, pepper, salt, chopped herbs, and breadcrumbs, to which 
add some ham or a miace of anchovy. 

Its flesh is tender and juicy and it requires less cooking than some 
of the tougher mushrooms. 

Lycoperdon giganteum Batscli. Puffball. 

Fig. 11. 

The giant puffball (Lycoperdon giganteum ), so generally neglected, is 
one of the most valuable of the edible mushrooms. Lt is readily dis¬ 
tinguished from other puffballs and allied fungi by its large size, it 
being from 10 to 20 inches in diameter, and by its form is easily sepa¬ 
rated from all other mushrooms. It is somewhat globose in form, 
whitish, or pale yellowish brown in color, filled with a soft white flesh 
when immature, which changes to an elastic, yellowish brown, cottony, 
but dusty mass of filaments and spores when mature, 


14 


In this state the peel or rind breaks up and gradually falls away in 
fragments. I have made full inquiry regarding it among mycologists 
and have not found a dissenting voice as to its value as an esculent. 
They all agree as to its edibility and tender character. All the spe¬ 
cies are edible, but the smooth-skinned varieties are more palatable 
than the rough-ski lined. 

Vittadini, an Italian mycologist, says: 


When the giant puffball is conveniently situated you should only take one 
slice at a time, cutting it horizontally, and using great care not to disturb its growth, 
to prevent decay, and thus one may have a fritter every day for a week. 

Dr. M. G. Cooke, the eminent London mycologist, writes with enthu¬ 
siasm of the merits of the giant puffball as an esculent, deeming it a 
delightful breakfast relish. 

Mrs. Hussey, of England, gives the following receipt for “puff-ball” 
omelet: 


First remove the outer skin; cut in slices half an inch thick; have ready some 
chopped herbs, peppers, and salt; dip the slices in the yolk of an egg and sprinkle 
the herbs upon them; fry in fresh butter and eat immediately. 

The puff-balls must be gathered young. If the substance within is 
white and pulpy it is in good condition for dressing, but if marked 
with yellow stains it should be rejected. 

The puff-ball is found growing in many parts of the United States 
and a few line specimens have been forwarded to this Department for 
inspection. I have myself tested a line specimen of the giant puff-ball 
found in the Department Grounds, finding it delicious eating when fried 
in egg batter. 

Iam informed that the giant puffball (Ly coper don gig an teum ) is found 
in great abundance growing on the Genesee Flats, Livingstone County, 
K Y. 

J. M. Dodge, Glencoe, Nebr., writes to theU. S. Department of Agri¬ 
culture, April 9, 1878: 

1 am much interested in the article “ Edible Fungi,” published in the Department 
Report for 1876. We have here a species of puffball which when young has firm, 
white fiesh, and 1 think would be good to eat. It sometimes grows to a large size. 
It is quite abundant on the prairie in summer, and if edible would offer a large 
amount of food. 

/ 

A correspondent of the Argus, Clayton, Mo., October 14, 1887, 
writes: 


The United States Agricultural Report of 1885 gives clear descriptions and beautiful 
drawings of twelve typical edible fungi. Of these, No. 7, the morel, page 105, in the 
spring, we use large quantities. Since the late rains we have had twice a day a lull 
supply of No. 6, Maned agaric, as a stew, and No. 11, “ puffball,” fried as a fritter. 
It is a misfortune that so little is known of this valuable class of products that are 
given by bountiful nature by the ton without any labor whatever. The nation is 
deeply indebted to Dr. Taylor, Microscopist, U. S. Department of Agriculture, for 
these clear details and most reliable, lifelike drawings, and we hope they will be 


issued as a separate bulletin and sent out among the people by the million. Give us 
more light on those subjects. 


15 


Fistulina hepatica Fr. Liver Fungus. 


Fig. 12. 


This fungus (Fistulina hepatica) is frequently found on old oaks, 
chestnuts, and ash. It develops from the rotten bark. It appears first 
as a rosy pimple at any time during the summer season. In a very 
short time it becomes tongue-shaped and assumes the color of a beet¬ 
root. In a few days it changes form again, becoming broad in com¬ 
parison to its length and changing color to a deep blood-red. Its lower 
surface is often paler than its upper, it being tinged with yellow and 
pink hues. It requires about two weeks to attain its highest develop¬ 
ment, after which it gradually decays. 

It varies in size from a few inches to several feet in circumference. 
Rev. M. J. Berkeley mentions one which weighed 30 pounds. It has 
been styled, the u poor man's fungus,” and in flavor resembles meatmorc 
than any other. 

When young and tender it can be sliced and broiled or minced and 
stewed, making a delicious dish. When old, the stock is rather tough 
for good eating, but the gravy taken from it is equal to that of the 
best beefsteak. The following receipt for cooking this fungus is recom¬ 
mended : 

Slice and macerate it, add pepper and salt, a little lemon, and minced eschalots, a 
species of onion and garlic; then strain and boil the liquid, which makes most excel- 
lenf.beef gravy. 

This fungus is esteemed in Europe, where it is eaten prepared in a 
variety of ways. Where it grows at all, it grows abundantly. 1 have 
found some fine specimens in the District of Columbia. 


METHODS OF CULTIVATION. 

Many methods of cultivating the common meadow mushroom have 
been presented by different growers, but all agree as to the value of the 
general methods in practice. Nearly every farm and nursery affords the 
conditions necessary to cultivate the ordinary held mushrooms, such as 
sheltered sheds, stables, and small liot-beds for winter cultivation, and 
melon patches, cucumber pits, etc., for summer culture. 

Mushroom spawn in “bricks” can be easily obtained from the seeds¬ 
men. Natural or virgin spawn, which is considered by many experienced 
growers as preferable to the artificial, can be obtained in most places 
where horses are kept. It is found in half-decomposed manure heaps, 
generally where horse droppings have accumulated under cover. It is 
readily distinguished by its white filamentous character, and by its 
mushroom odor. When dried it can be kept for years. 

Mushroom beds are easily formed on the floor of sheds, by carrying 
in the fresh stable dung, adding to it about one-fourth of good loam, 
mixing both together, pressing firmly down, and letting the mass re¬ 
main about two weeks untouched. By this time the temperature will 



16 


be on the decline, and when it falls to 90° F., break the bricks of spawn 
into pieces 2 inches square, and plant 12 inches apart, 3 inches below 
the surface. Then cover over to the depth of 3 inches with good gar¬ 
den soil and press down firmly. 

It is recommended that mushroom beds should not be finally earthed 
until the spawn is seen beginning to spread its white filaments through 
the mass; and should it fail to do this in eight or ten days after spawn¬ 
ing, the conditions being favorable, it is better to insert fresh spawn or 
to remake the bed, adding fresh materials if it be found to tail from 
being too cold. 

It is advisable not to put the spawn at any uniform depth, but so 
that while one piece of it may be at a depth of 6 inches, or nearly so, 
others may touch the surface. This allows the spawn to vegetate at a 
depth and temperature most congenial to it. Mushrooms may be cul¬ 
tivated in warm cellars, in boxes about I feet square by 18 inches in 
depth, for family use. 


APPENDIX. 


DIRECTIONS FOR THE PREPARATION AND SPAWNING OF 

MUSHROOM BEDS. 

The following practical directions for the preparation and spawning 
of mushroom beds have been transcribed from Mr. William Falconer’s 
valuable treatise, “ Mushrooms, and How to Grow Them,” and are ap¬ 
pended in the belief that they will form a valuable supplement to the 
preceding pages: 

PREPARING THE REDS. 

When enough manure has accumulated for a bed, prepare it in the 
following way: Turn it over, shaking it up loosely and mixing it all well 
together. Throw aside the dry strawy part, also any white “burnt” 
manure that may be in it, and all extraneous matter, as sticks, stones, 
old tins, bones, leather straps, rags, scraps of iron, or such other trash 
as we usually find in manure heaps, but do not throw out any of the 
wet straw; indeed we should aim to retain all the straw that has been 
well wetted in the stable. If the manure is too dry, do not hesitate to 
sprinkle it freely with water, and it will take a good deal of water to 
well moisten a heap of dry manure. Then throw it into a compact 
oblong pile about 3 or 4 feet high and tread it down a little. This is to 
prevent hasty and violent heating and “ burning,” for firmly packed 
manure does not heat up so readily or whiten so quickly as does a pile 
loosely thrown together. Leave it undisturbed until fermentation has 
started briskly, which, in early fall, may be in two or three days, or in 
winter, in six to ten days; then turn it over again, shaking it up 
thoroughly and loosely and keeping what was outside before inside 
now, and what was inside before toward the outside now; and if there 
are any unduly dry parts moisten them as you go along. Trim up 
the heap into the same shape as before and again tread it down firmly. 

This compacting of the pile at every turning reduces the number of 
required turnings. When hot manure is turned and thrown loosely 
into a pile it regains its great heat so rapidly that it will need turning 
again within twenty-four hours in order to save it from burning, and 
all practical men know that at every turning ammonia is wasted, the 
most potent food of the mushroom. We should therefore endeavor to 
10319-2 17 




18 


get along with as few turnings as possible; at the same time never 
allow any part of the manure to burn, even if we have to turn the 
heap every day. These turnings should be continued until the manure 
has lost its tendency to heat violently, and its hot rank smell is gone— 
usually in about three weeks’ time. If the manure, or any part of it ? 
is too dry at the turning, the dry part should be sprinkled with water 
and kept in the middle of the heap. Plain water is generally used for 
moistening the manure, but I sometimes use liquid from the stable 
tanks, which not only answers the purpose of wetting the dry materi¬ 
als, but it is also a powerful stimulant and welcome addition to the 
manure. But the greatest vigilance should be observed to guard 
against overmoistening the manure; far better fail on the side of dry. 
ness than on that of wetness. 

If the manure is too wet to begin with it should be spread out thinly 
and loosely and exposed to sun and wind, if practicable, to dry. Dry¬ 
ing by exposure in this way is not as enervating as u burning” in a 
hot pile; and better have recourse to any method of drying the manure 
than use it wet. If, on account of the weather or lack of convenience for 
drying, the manure can not be dried enough, add dry loam, dry sand, 
dry half rotted leaves, dry peat moss, dry chaff, or dry finely-cut hay 
or straw, and mix together. 

The proper condition of the manure as regards dryness or moistness 
can be readily known by handling it. Take a handful of the manure 
and squeeze it tight; it should be unctous enough to hold together in 
a lump and so dry that you can not squeeze a drop of water out of it. 

Some private gardeners in England lay particular stress upon collect¬ 
ing the fresh droppings at the stable everyday and spreading them out 
upon a shed or barn floor to dry, and in this way keeping them dry and 
from heating until enough has accumulated for a bed, when the bed is made 
up entirely of this material or of part of this and part of loam. But mar¬ 
ket gardeners, the ones whose bread and butter depend upon the crops 
they raise, never practice this method, and that patriarch in the busi¬ 
ness, Bichard Gilbert, denounces the practice unstintedly. Different 
growers have different ideas of preparing manure for mushroom beds, 
but the aim of all is to get it into the best possible condition with 
the least labor and expense, and to guard against depriving it of any 
more ammonia than can be helped. 


SPAWNING THE BEDS. 

After the mushroom bed is made up it should, within a few days, 
warm to a temperature of 110° to 120° F. Carefully observe this, and 
never spawn a bed when the heat is rising or when it is warmer than 
100°, but always when it is on the decline and under 90°. In this there 
is perfect safety. Have a ground thermometer and keep it plunged into 
the bed; by pulling it out and looking at it one can easily know exactly 


the temperature of the bed. Have a few straight smootli stakes, like 
short walking canes, and stick the end of these into the bed, 12 to 20 
feet apart; by pulling them out and feeling them with the hand one can 
tell pretty closely the temperature of the bed. 

All practical mushroom-growers know that if the temperature of a 
12-incli thick bed at 7 inches from the surface is 100° that within an 
inch of the surface of the bed will only be about 95° indoors and 85° 
to 90° out of doors. Also, that when the heat of the manure is on the 
decline it falls rapidly 5, often 10, degrees a day till it reaches about 75°, 
and between that and 65° it may rest for weeks. 

Some years ago I gave considerable attention to this matter of spawn¬ 
ing beds at different temperatures. Spawn planted as soon as the bed 
was made (five days after spawning, the heat in interior of bed ran up 
to 123°) yielded no mushrooms, the mycelium being killed. The same 
was the case in all beds where the spawn had been planted before the 
heat in the beds had attained its maximum (120° or over). Where the 
heat in the middle of the bed never reached 115°, the spawn put in 
when the bed was made and molded over the same day yielded a small 
crop of mushrooms. A bed in which the heat was declining was 
spawned at 110°; this bore a very good crop, and at 100° and under to 
95°, good crops in every case were secured with several days’ delay in 
bearing in the case of the lowest temperatures. But, notwithstanding 
these facts, my advice to all beginners in mushroom-growing is, wait 
until the heat of the bed is on the decline and has fallen to at least 90° 
before inserting the spawn. 

Writing to me about spawning his bed, Mr. Withington, of New Jer¬ 
sey, says: u 1 believe a bed spawned at 90° to 70° and kept at 55° after 
the mushrooms appear will give better results than one spawned at a 
higher temperature, say 90°.” 

Here is the oddest thing about Mr. J. G. Gardner’s method of mushroom¬ 
growing. He does not give the manure any preparatory treatment for 
the beds. He hauls it from the cars to the cellar, at once spreads it 
upon the floor, and packs it solid into a bed. For example, on one oc¬ 
casion the manure arrived at Jobstown, July 8. It was hauled home 
and the bed made up the same day, and the first mushrooms were 
oathered from this bed the second week in September, just two months 
from the time the manure left the New York or Jersey City stables. 
The bed was 15 inches thick. In making it the manure was first shaken 
up loosely to admit of its being more evenly spread than if pitched out 
in heavy forkfuls, and it was then tramped down hnnly with the feet. 
The bed was then marked off into halves. On one-half (No. 1) a layer 
of a little over 3 inches of loam was at once placed over the manure. 
On the other half (No. 2) no loam was used at this time, but the manure 
on the surface of the bed—about 3 inches deep—was forked over loosely. 
Twelve days after having been put in the temperature of the bed No. 


9 


20 

2 (3 inches deep) was 90° and then it was spawned. On the next day 
the soil from bed No. 1, spawned four days earlier, was thrown upon 
bed No. 2, and then part of the soil that was thrown on No. 1 was 
thrown back again on No. 2, so that now a coating of loam an inch and 
a half deep covered the whole surface of the bed. When finished the 
surface was tamped gently with a tamper with a face of pine plank 10 
inches long by 12 inches wide. Mr. Gardner does not believe in the 
alleged advantages of a hard-packed surface on the mushroom bed, 
but is inclined to favor a moderately firm one. 

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